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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm fairly new to goat raising but it seems like deworming is a very necessary part of keeping a healthy goat heard. I was wondering what you use for yours? So i thought i would make a topic for new people like me to see what everyones preference of dewormer. From what i learned on here and some research. I use ivermectin 1% injectable and every 2nd or 3rd time i use valbazen. No particular reason why jus seen someone recommended that. What do u use?
 

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Good topic! I use Cydectin but this is because I have been having a BIG problem with parasites. It seems to be working very well but I am going to be switching to Molly's Herbal wormer so that we can drink the milk instead of having to pitch it. I am also worried about developing a resistance to the Cydectin as well. :)

I was also told to not rotate wormers and to use one until it stops working unless you have a problem that only the ivermectin will take care of.
 

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We use safeguard and haven't had any worm problems. Knock on wood!!!
 

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I use Molly's herbal wormer, I also have started adding DE (wet down) to their feed daily, as my friends said it has made a big difference for them in their husky dogs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I rotate to Valbazen every 2nd or 3rd to cover the bugs that ivermectin doesn't. Or thats what i got from reading other post. Is there a wormer out there that covers all worms and bugs??? Is there such a thing? Hopefully we can get some more comments on here im interested to see what everyone else is doing. Thanks
 

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we use Ivomec plus on everyone but babies under 6 months and bran new moms..valbazen for new moms and babies...

see goat-link.com lookunder parasites and click the first link goat dewormin info
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I use Molly's herbal wormer, I also have started adding DE (wet down) to their feed daily, as my friends said it has made a big difference for them in their husky dogs.
Thats funny (only cuz i jus heard about herbal wormers and then 2 people post it on here lol.) I was jus looking in2 herbal wormers and came across the article below. I think its pretty interesting read.
http://www.fiascofarm.com/herbs/wormer.htm
 

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I've been making my own herbal wormer. shipping molly's isn't feasible for me here. it seems to be working as my dry doe hasn't had to be chemically wormed since late Feb. my new freshened doe has had parasite problems, so I broke and had to gave her Ivomec. was using Safeguard, but didn't like results (had to worm often).

I also give raw garlic everyday
 

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We typically rotate wormers with Equimax horse paste, and Cydectin <or Quest Plus>. During the warmer months we HAVE to worm regularly otherwise we end up regretting it.
BUT, we pretty much know what kind of worms we are dealing with. You need to know what your dealing with in order to know how to treat them.

Safeguard in our area is dubbed useless.

You have to give a HIGH dose of Ivermectin horse paste to make it affective.
Injectible seems to be okay, we give about 1x more in a dose for the does.

Last year we used Cydectin for a form of Strongyles recommended per our vet.
Seemed all was good, then we had an issue. Our neighbor has a goat and did the same thing - use Cydectin. Then they found out their goat had round worms!
So that is the biggest reason we alternate between these 2. The Cydectin wasn't killing Round Worms, but the Ivermectin was <active ingredient in Equimax horse paste>.

We follow up every 7-10 days for 2 additional doses.

Just be careful what you use on pregnant goats. Valbazen is not safe for pregnant does. I've heard to not use Quest or Quest Plus during pregnancy either.
 

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Thats funny (only cuz i jus heard about herbal wormers and then 2 people post it on here lol.) I was jus looking in2 herbal wormers and came across the article below. I think its pretty interesting read.
http://www.fiascofarm.com/herbs/wormer.htm
It's worked well for us. When possible, I like to use herbal because the worms don't become immune to them. That way, when I have to use a chemical (such as for coccidia, or if it's just a bad worm season) I have a better chance of it working effectively. I don't hesitate at all to deworm chemically if I need to, I just haven't needed to for a long time. :D When I have a wormy doe, I give them a good double-dose of the stronger herbal wormer. You have to tweak the amounts and length of the doses sometimes, depending on how bad a worm season it is.

Phew, just wrote you a book! :laugh: Anyway, I also have a vet who does fecals, so if I find one of my goats needs dewormed, I will probably have him run a fecal before I treat. Immunity is such a huge problem, and I want to know that I'm treating them correctly so that I'm not adding to that problem.
 

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I use in rotation. I use Zimectrin Gold (horse paste wormer) works great, however they changed the formula so now it doesn't kill 60 kinds of parasites and their many stages, now its only 47.
I also use Cydectin, ivermectin injectable and the paste.
Never had a worm problem using this rotation.
 

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I use in rotation. I use Zimectrin Gold (horse paste wormer) works great, however they changed the formula so now it doesn't kill 60 kinds of parasites and their many stages, now its only 47.
I also use Cydectin, ivermectin injectable and the paste.
Never had a worm problem using this rotation.
What's the dose on the zimectrin gold for goats?
 

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Someone from an e-mail list I'm on sent this study on resistance.
They claim it is good to not worm all your animals with your best "go to" wormer. Maybe leave your most resistant goats alone. The theory is the parasites the untreated goat sheds will reproduce with resistant ones and weaken the resistance. Interesting theory. It had much more info too, but I'd heard most of it before. It was a PDF file that is too big unfortunately. I'm sure I can send it in an e-mail if anyone is interested.
[email protected]
 

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I was able to copy and paste some of it. "Refugia" is what they are calling parasites that haven't been exposed to a particular womer.


Refugia
After an animal is treated with an antiparasitic drug,
the susceptible parasites die and the resistant
parasites survive to pass on resistance genes to their
offspring. If not enough susceptible parasites remain
in the environment and in the animal, they cannot
dilute the increase in resistant parasites that occurs
after treatment. This scenario occurs when there is a
lack of refugia.
What is refugia?
Refugia is the proportion of the total parasite
population that is not selected for antiparasitic drug
treatment�essentially, those parasites that are in
�refuge� from the drug. Therefore, there's no selection
pressure on these parasites to develop resistance.
Refugia maintains a proportion of susceptible
parasites on the farm and includes:
.... Parasites in untreated animals, called hostbased
refugia.
.... Eggs and larvae already on the pasture when
the animals are treated, called environmental
refugia.
.... Life stages of the parasite that are unaffected
by drug treatment, such as some larval stages. ..
Why is preserving refugia important?
Preserving refugia maintains drug-sensitive
(susceptible) parasites. The presence of some drugsensitive
parasites decreases (dilutes) the proportion
of resistant parasites within the parasite population on
a farm.
 

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What's the dose on the zimectrin gold for goats?
For my full grown does and bucks (alpine and boer) I use the 250lb dose for my alpines and a tad more for my boers. But if my buck is bigger than 250lbs then I give a 350lb ish dose, somewhere in that range. Its always better to give a bit too much than not enough.

I actually forgot to lock the tab once and I was worming a kid doeling with it, the ENTIRE 1250LB dose tube came out when I wormed her! I thought I would have killed her overdoseing her like that, she was absolutely fine though. She was only about 40lbs herself!
for a 40+ pound kid I give an amount that I estimate to be in the 70lb-100lbs range, a bit less if they are right at 40.

I just estimate by the dial thats on the tube, I have never actually broken it down to cc's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That great info. Makes alotta sense, im re-thinking my worming tactics now. Like hoosiershadow said its good 2 know what bug your dealing with. So fecal testing is essential but in my area the cheapest fecal i found was $38. Is that normal? That seemed pretty steep to me. I heard u can do your own? Anyone know how easy it is?
 

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That great info. Makes alotta sense, im re-thinking my worming tactics now. Like hoosiershadow said its good 2 know what bug your dealing with. So fecal testing is essential but in my area the cheapest fecal i found was $38. Is that normal? That seemed pretty steep to me. I heard u can do your own? Anyone know how easy it is?
That's steep to me......my vet charges $20 which I think is almost too high but I pay anyway. I'd rather know.
 

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Hi, I'm just trying to learn more about worming. We've been using Panacur and Cydectin for a while; usually I'll use Panacur every month or two, for maybe 3 times in a row, then switch to Cydectin. This is because that's what our vet reccomended, but now that I've been reading more about it, I feel like maybe I've been switching too often. I had just switched back to Cydectin for their last dose, but I've been looking at their eyelids, and according to the FAMACHA chart on the goat-link website, their only acceptable/borderline, and one doe and buck that I aquired just recently have very pale pink, almost white eyelids, and I'm a little worried about them. Should I give them another dose of Cydectin? Or start using an herbal wormer? (We have used Heogger's herbal wormer before with good results, but it's been quite a while since we last used it).
 
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