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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm HIGHLY thinking about breeding rabbits on the side of goats for little profit but still looking for a profit possibly lol. I don't want to loose.
I have a few questions...

I'm guessing a dual breed would be the most profitable (meat and pet?)
I really like Rex's because they sell good over here for pets (because of their beautiful coat).
I want y'all's opinion and choice on dual breeds?

What feed/minerals/vaccinations should they be given? Is there any hay and or vegetables I should give?
I have a good idea but I want to be 100% on what I'm doing here :p

Last one ;)
The bunnies will be staying at a place where my goats are & well, let's say there's a few wild animals lol.
I don't exactly trust the whole "wire pens lined up on a fence" idea.
I'm thinking maybe building a BIG "castle/house/shed" for the does to run around together in while not pregnant. If that's ok?
They could all have a box to sleep in at night, I could clean it out & put some grass in the bottom for bedding.
If not, I'll make separate cages but :/ I feel bad confining them to that.
Have the buck at my house of course!^.^ lol He be my buddy:)


Oh, sorry. One last one.
How do you know the does are in heat? & how many times do you breed them each year?

Ok, I'm done.
Thank you guys in advance!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
MAYBE I could make a closed sliding poopy tray that has a door on one side and the other 3 are closed so that I could pull it out every day and do that?
Hmmm.
 

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I have no clue on breeding rabbits so I am no help. We just have one pet one and he lives in an outdoor hutch. Good luck in your endeavor though!
 

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Our Rabbit Buck-Eye Joe is really a meat rabbit, even though we keep him as a pet.
 

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Well, I heard that does tend to be aggressive towards each other, but this isn't any personal experience. Rabbit does don't really cycle, it's more like, you want babies, you put them in with the buck, watch him do his buisness, and pull the doe out.. stick a nesting box in with the doe 27 days later and a few days after that, kapow! You have kits! :lol:
As far as feeding goes, rabbit pellets from the feed store usually the 16% unless it's a pregnant doe or a lactating doe with kits, then get the higher percentage.. Shouldn't feed greens to bunnies under six months..
Wire cages may seem kinda sad, but they are cleanlier than wooden ones, feces and urine builds up in the corners, they're a bigger to clean, and they bunnies can get coccidia and stuff... wire cages work pretty well and the buns don't seem to mind, just check occasionally for sore hocks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll check with my feed store this week when I get hay ^.^
I'm just worried about the wire because of the overload of Pygmy rattlers, ***** that wouldn't mind pulling them through the wholes, it the bears and hogs that could take one bite through the cage and get hops a lot or tulip lol. (Named them already ;) ) jk.
But yeah, and since I don't live out there & it's aprox. A 20 min ride there from my house, I wouldn't be able to cover them with tarps or something when it rains/storms:(
There's a lot of factors with it all. Lol
& the confinement but I know some are REALLY lazy and love the small space.
 

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We raise medium sized meat rabbits, New Zealand/Silver Fox crosses, because if you research meat rabbits this size is recommended for best finishing pound for pound, as the meat to bone ratio is high. But, meat rabbits are usually calm (I would look for a calm rabbit), so we have sold a number of our meat rabbits that have been handled to pet and breeding stock type homes with no issues, where they will be worked with and loved on. To be honest, so far, we have sold everything we raised. Don't know that it will always be that way, but that is okay with us too.
 

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We raise New Zealands, but have had mini rex. IME, the NZ have a better pet personality. Not sure on standard rex personality or meat, though we'd like to get those sometime. On the other hand, if you are saving the pelts (which we do), rex-type fur is wonderful.
 

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My son is raising rabbit...he's 6 so basically I manage it except for cleaning and feeding lol. I hate hate having them in a small pen as well. He has 8 does and they all run around in a dog kennel. Line the bottom with wire or they will dig out. I can tell who the boss is and who is low man but since its a large area they can run from each other so I would just worry about fighting if its a small area. I can't tell you if there is profit or not....poor kid has my bad luck with them. So far he has only sold 1to his uncle for $8. The first little the goats got in the back yard....we were weaning the babies so had them in a movable cage and the goats pushed them out in the sun and knocked ttheir water off. Second little....cats :( but we are doing good with #3 lol poor kid.
To be honest I don't see a ton of profit in them. But also if you loose money it will not be a big loss either. It works for him since he sees $1 like we see $100 lol. And we like them as pets as well. We will sit out with them and have them bounce all over us.
If you go for rabbits watch winters and for sure summers on babies. You can make a nesting box with a hole to put a heat lamp in. And I have no suggestions for summer. I bought a nice little cage and from now on they will kit in the house during the summer and winter.
 

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In the summer freeze twenty ounce pops bottles filled with water and put them in the cage with them, they will snuggle up to the pop bottle to keep cool. Also keep lots of fresh water out and make sure they have shade. Buck eye Joes, hutch sits under a cedar tree so he is protected from the elements not only from his hutch's roof but also from that dense tree. It knocks wind off him when it is cold and shades him from the sun in summer. Summer is harder on bunnies than winter, and you being in florida, you probably won't have much issues with them in winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Surprisingly enough, my ex had more problems in winter then summer because of our breeze.
Were so close to the coast.

Thank you guys SO much!!!!
I LOVE the idea of a dog kennel......... It has roof and all sides. Maybe put 2 2x4's stacked on top on each side of the dog kennel so the snakes hopefully won't crawl in and the hugs don't push it , that'll be good:)

I'm thinking about breeding for spring babies.
What age should I start breeding at and how many litters each year do you guys recommend? :)
 

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Well, for the dwarfs(what I had) it was like six months when you could start breeding them, I think rexes were older than that.. I think eight months, but I'm not completely sure.. I think you could get 4 litters per year if you have them on good food and don't give the doe as long of a rest..
 

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They should be ok for meat.

When we had rabbits they stayed outside year-round. In the winter we just covered them with a tarp, and gave them all heat lamps in their nestboxes. In the summer we gave them frozen water bottles, and they were just fine.
 

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Well... $80 is a lot... and lops don't have the same body type as the meat breeds. If you've ever felt a meat rabbit, they have big firm muscles, whereas lops don't.. the lops have a different build. I'd be concerned with such long ears.. they tend to step on them.. and get scratched up... if I had to choose I would look for a rex if that was the original breed you were thinking of..
 

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I was breeding Flemish giants for years, sold them as pets as I could not butcher them. Do you know anyone who has butchered rabbits before. I'd talk to them it is not easy
 

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Chopsgoats is right, it is not easy to kill a cute fluffy bunny. :( For killing rabbits, we use the Rabbit Zinger. It's a bit pricey new, but I bought one used and wouldn't trade it for its weight in gold. I wouldn't even try the Wringer after using this. It takes a bit of practice, but once you get it right, the rabbits don't even know what hits them. Read the directions and precautions before using. Something they don't mention is that there is a bit of a recoil, and if you don't resist it, the rod doesn't hit the rabbit hard enough. Also, older rabbits have thicker skulls and you may need to give the Zinger a bit of a thrust to kill them. KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THE WAY! The nice thing is that even if a rabbit isn't killed instantly, it is usually pretty well stunned, giving you time to finish it off before it has time to suffer.
The rest of the slaughtering process is a cinch. Just hang the rabbit upside-down by its feet (I use hooks made of high-tensile wire), cut the head and front paws off, slit around the back paws and up the legs, slice off the tail, peel off the pelt, slit up the belly and pull all the insides out, cut off the back legs. With practice, you can trim slaughtering time down to less than 10 minutes (or less than 5 if you're in a hurry!)
One thing I always do before killing an animal is pray, "Please make it go quickly and painlessly, and may rabbits go to heaven!" As the first request has always been granted since I started praying this, I have hope for the second. :)
 
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