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I've attached fecal results from my three Nubians. I'm hoping y'all can help me analyze and decide what to deworm them with? I'm in northern michigan. Definitely need to fix the lungworm, but I don't know what dewormer to use. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
IMG_0106.jpg
 

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Ok so it looks like we deal with similar worms.
The local livestock diagnostics lab kind of groups them into 1 and calls them HOT =
Haemonchus (Barberpole), Ostertagia and Trichostrongyle.

I want to say the lab had told me that Barberpole and Ostertagia are so similar, they would have to hatch them out to get 100% ID. Trichostrongyle I was explained by a person is a smaller 'group' of worms 'family,' while Trichostrongylus are a larger 'extended family.' So Trichostron'gyle' and Trichostron'gylus' are not the same exact thing.
Just thought I'd share that tid bit as I was gathering info when I talked with our 4H livestock club about fecal testing.

Treatment really depends on the condition of your goats. It is highly recommended by many these days to use 2 different classes of dewormers at the same time.
But it also depends on your goats = condition and FAMACHA.

Recently there have been medical charts floating around facebook that are really awesome IMO.
This I believe was originally posted on All Valley Market Goat page and great information!





So for example... you can use this:



EDITED TO ADD: Ivermectin can be used on the ones who tested positive for lung worms since they were free of other worms. You can use Horse paste dewormers at 3-4x a horse dose (100lb. goat would get 300-400lbs. of dewormer), or the injectable given orally as mentioned.
 

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@HoosierShadow - the same goats have lung worms that tested for HOT, just different fecal tests listed on the reporting form to capture all types of parasites (Standard, Baermann, Sedimentation). See the names though?

I do not recommend treating for the first column results, those numbers are so low they do not require treatment. I think the poster was only asking about lungworm treatment.
 

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@HoosierShadow - the same goats have lung worms that tested for HOT, just different fecal tests listed on the reporting form to capture all types of parasites (Standard, Baermann, Sedimentation). See the names though?

I do not recommend treating for the first column results, those numbers are so low they do not require treatment. I think the poster was only asking about lungworm treatment.
Thanks I guess I got ahead of myself! I honestly don't know much about those kind of results as I've never read them, and am used to doing my own now with egg's I find in McMaster x 50 to get egg count per 2 grams of fecal matter.

I didn't pay attention to goat names lol Just looked at the egg count and the key at the bottom of the page where it stated low, moderate, etc. amounts.
 

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Hi. Just going by my vet & past experiences. I dont worm unless in the moderate range which is 50+. All goats have some worms.So being easy with the wormer allows your herd to not become immune to its properties. I was told to only use 1 wormer, until it no longer works. The 1% ivermectine is what Ive been useing for 3 years. My herd has been pretty consistent to needing wormed maybe 2xs a year. Once we overworm the goats, we run out of wormers that work, and thats where combining comes into play. Also you are causing other chemical reactions in your goats system, that can come back to hurt your goat. Please read all instructions & ingrediants.
Vets are discovering that goat wormers, like antibiotics for people, have become over used, and now we & the goats worms are resistant to them.
 

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Hi. Just going by my vet & past experiences. I dont worm unless in the moderate range which is 50+. All goats have some worms.So being easy with the wormer allows your herd to not become immune to its properties. I was told to only use 1 wormer, until it no longer works. The 1% ivermectine is what Ive been useing for 3 years. My herd has been pretty consistent to needing wormed maybe 2xs a year. Once we overworm the goats, we run out of wormers that work, and thats where combining comes into play. Also you are causing other chemical reactions in your goats system, that can come back to hurt your goat. Please read all instructions & ingrediants.
Vets are discovering that goat wormers, like antibiotics for people, have become over used, and now we & the goats worms are resistant to them.
You have to find what works for your herd and the parasites you deal with. That is the key and it can be frustrating. Your lucky if you can get away with only using Ivermectin. Sadly, in our area if you relied on Ivermectin alone you would have dead goats :( been there & done that (not the dead goat part). I use it maybe 2x a year for worry of lungworm (my neighbor said they saw a few lungworm when doing fecal exam), but I also use Equimax (Ivermectin/Praziquantel) mostly on kids for tapeworm = Praziquantel kills tapeworm (Valbazen does NOT work at least not here!). I choose Equimax because there is resistance to Ivermectin. Whereas Quest Plus (Moxidectin/Praziquantel) - there is not as much resistance with Moxidectin and don't want to over use it and create resistance.
So... we tend to use Valbazen and if that doesn't do it, I go to Quest. Just had to do that with a doe that kidded 5 weeks ago. Valbazen just wasn't getting it by itself, but paired with Quest (I gave at different times though, didnt' do at the same time), they knocked the numbers way down.

I'm no pro or know it all, what works for me might not work for someone else or vice versa :)
 

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Right, Im no pro either. It is amazing at how ,depending on if you show, keep them at home . Or lease, or, how differently the goats are treated. Here in Oklahoma our drastic weather & dry heat helps us. I believe in Kentucky and more Southern states, the humidity is whats keeps your worm population at its highest. One of the vets who came to Langston was from the South. And he was telling us the horror stories of his clietele & worm loads. So..so much to learn & discuss. I am concerned with the mixing of chemicals. Not that its wrong or wont work. I dont know what it will do in the long run to the health of the goat.
 
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