Gonna try this thing.

Discussion in 'Goat Frenzy' started by goatweed, Feb 29, 2008.

  1. goatweed

    goatweed New Member

    Feb 29, 2008
    Whew, I finally found everybody from GW. Okay here is the deal. My daughter showed again this year and did pretty well for a kid whose dad doesn't know a flippin thing about a goat (she made sale both years). I just read everything I can get my hands on. So I have decided to start raising a few of our own. They have been a lot of fun. I am working on a layout of my place and I am checking out everyone's barn plans so I can get some ideas. I am only going to use about 10 acres for now and if I can make this work, I may add to it. Anyway, I want to begin asking some probably dumb questions but that doesn't bother me. I hope it doesn't bother you. I think I have a tiny grasp on worm medications, etc. Do these things really stay as sick as what it sounds like? My real questions are: I noticed everyone keeps their bucks separate. Why? How do you know when to turn them out with the ladies? I see some people talk about separating does and kids (I think) after kidding. Why and when? The last concern I have (for now) is what about vaccinations and shots for kids? What is absolutely mandatory and what is just a good practice? There are no goat vets around here. (I know you're surprised)
    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance,
  2. PACE

    PACE New Member

    Oct 8, 2007
    Welcome Brad! Ask as many questions as you like! Goats are really quite hardy animals and are relatively easy to care for. The most important things to start with are good sturdy fences, and roomy, but draft-free shelters. Goats don't actually need any vaccinations, and many people don't give any shots, but then, many people do. I don't know what are usually given to kids. The reason for keeping bucks separate is they will breed a doe as soon as they can in many cases, whether it be a doe too soon after she kids or a doeling too young to be bred. I think most people put in the bucks with the does late fall for spring kiddings... but different people do different things.

  3. kelebek

    kelebek New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    South Texas

    Don't feel bad, when I first started with goats in August, I had no idea what the heck I was doing - and now - I know a little - LOL :greengrin:

    Regarding seperating the buck - I strongly reccommend that as I did not at first and you don't know due dates, who was bred, who is settled, then they will even try to mount when they are pregnant and could injure the doe or the kids that are in utero. Oh and the bucks will rebreed as soon as possible after kidding ---- which is not good for the momma at all just like with us.

    Kids and bucks - I really have had no problems introducing the kids to the bucks. But I do watch them closely and make sure that there is a place that the kids can hide if need be!

    Other then that - ask away and we will all try and pitch in our 2 cents!


    PS what type of goats are you thinking of getting??
  4. sweetgoats

    sweetgoats Moderator

    Oct 18, 2007
    Peyton CO.
    First of all, Welcome to the goat Spot :wave: :wave: . I am sure you will find it very cozy around here, and I have to ell you NO QUESTION IS EVER DUMB!!!!. That is how we all learn.
    Ok, Dad must of known something because you daughter made sale so give yourself a pat on the back. Or a HI FIVE. :hi5:
    Ok, I will try a few of your questions.
    1. I never let my bucks run with my does because I want the does bred on my terms, not the boys, and I want to know who was bred to who. I have to many bucs, plus i do not want them bred to young.
    2. I give all my does their CD/T if I can get the due date right. I do it 2-4 weeks before they kid, that way the baby gets some before they are born. Then the baby gets them a 2 weeks old and again at 6 weeks (or 4 weeks after the first one). If I missed the doe in the time frame, then I have to give them a 2 weeks, 6 weeks, and again at 10 weeks.
    3. The reason people pull the babies at birth is so they can guarantee they are 100% CAE, or CL, free, (as much as you can guarantee). Others do it to milk the does for their own use of the milk
    4.OK, you said about the worming, Do these this stay as sick as they sound? If you stay on top of it and do not OVER use the medication and use the correct medication then you will not have any trouble. Couple things to remember. Do not EVER feed on the ground, keep the water clean (that is the hardest part). Keep a eye on their eye lids. The yshould be a nice pink color. If they are getting a little pain then they are over due. What I tell all my 4Hers to do id when they are new, before they deworm they need to take a fecal sample tot he vet and see if they even NEED to deworm them.
    Ok, I hope I got most of it, and I am sure others will fill in.
  5. goathappy

    goathappy New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    The only dumb question is the one that goes unasked :wink:

    I don't think I understand your question, but a wormy goat is an unhealthy goat. You will see loss of condition, production and appetite with a wormy goat, and eventually it will lead to anemia and possibly death. You should always stay on top of worming.

    We keep our bucks separate because 1: I want to control when the does are going to kid and know when they are going to kid(I don't like surprises) it also prevents kids from getting bred to young 2: bucks are easier to handle IMO when they are separated and 3: bucks with milking does makes stinky milk

    You put the does in with the buck when they are showing signs of heat, and you put them in with the buck when you want them to kid at a certain time.

    Well this year we didn't separate kids, but in most cases you separate kids if you want to milk the does. Otherwise, if you have just meat goats or minis, then the kids shouldn't be separated from the does.

    Here is a good thread on why or why not to vaccinate: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1719

    I personally do not, but if you have horses on your property I recommend vaccinations. The main vaccination that everybody gives is CD&T which is for overeating(enterotoxemia) and tetanus.

    Oh, and btw, welcome to the Goat Spot!! :thumb:
  6. Shelly

    Shelly New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    I'm guess you will be raising boer for market projects (you said your DD make sale). Like other said you want to know when your does are due, but if you are breeding for fair you will need kids born in time to make weight. Are fair is in sept. so we start breeding in august/sept.

    If this will be market goats I recommend give CD/T. CD/T (Vaccine for immunizing sheep, goats & cattle against tetanus & overeating disease caused by Cl.) Market animal have a high chance of getting overeating do to feeding high rate of grain.

    I would also recommend get a good book on raising goats. I have storey guide to raising sheep(we started with sheep) and I've read other people goat books and a lot of old post form webgoat help a lot.
  7. goatweed

    goatweed New Member

    Feb 29, 2008
    Okay thank you everybody sooooo much. Believe it or not, I get it. For the record, yes I am considering Meat Goats/Market Project show goats. I am not sure what that means. I thought it meant that I wanted all the Boer I could get, but now people are telling me that I want to show a percentage wether. ARGHHH! I assume the percentage is Boer, but how much and what is the other percentage? And why?

    Thanks again - you guys (and girls) are great.
  8. goathappy

    goathappy New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Percentage is usually part boer, and the other percent that isn't boer is usually a mix of kiko, spanish or some other heinz goat. Percentages do better because you have the hybrid vigor of several different breeds in one package.

    From personal experience, percentages grow faster and have better muscling that FB boers. My brother got some FBs this year and they did get nice muscling eventually, but the percentages still grew way faster. We'll have to see what its like when the FBs have their own kids. You can see some of my brother's percentage boers on the Delhotal Farms website(link in my sig)
  9. Di

    Di Crazy Goat Lady

    Jan 29, 2008
    central PA
    Welcome, you'll find the folks here are very helpful and know their stuff. That said I learned alot from a website called http://www.fiascofarm.com. Also, I found Storeys(sp) Raising Dairy Goats very helpful. They have one for meat goats also. I'm sure someone here can give you the web address for the meat goat assoc., they have an ethnic calendar if you want to sell meat goats for different religious holidays.

    I am a newbie too. Too new to get brave about skipping vaccinations, for the most part. I vaccinate for CD/T, rabies, I do use an herbal wormer (but once in a while I use ivermectin too). But, I also think you can avoid problems with common sense, keep stuff picked up and your grounds clean. Watch out for poisous plants. SECURE fences and gates.

    I have to work on a new buck area. Mine were kids until recently, now they are growing up and becoming, well, men.

    Good luck, Di
  10. liz

    liz Well-Known Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Shelocta PA
    Hi there and Welcome! First off it is neccesary to have adequate fencing for your goats protection...and your landscaping! Also make sure to have dry and comfortable housing...goats do need protection from the elements. Bucks should be separate from does because it just isn't healthy for a doe to be repeatedly bred and giving birth...too many pregnancies in so many months is just debilitating to the ladies. I do vaccinate for CD/T and worm regularly with an alternation of Safeguard and Ivermectin. Hoof trims are a must as goats hooves grow fast and can cause problems with hoof rot and can be un comfortable for the goat if they are overgrown. Most of all though, be able to have the time to enjoy their company because if you let it become too much like work you won't get any enjoyment from these friendly critters.
    Even though I have minis pygmy/ND...I do separate kids from the mom's because my girls give the sweetest milk and I use it for lots of wonderful things! Babies either go to new homes at 7 weeks or they are stalled away from moms thru the night so I get first dibs on her full udder. Lots of info and lots of us to answer any questions you may have...and apparently you know a good bit otherwise your daughter wouldn't have done so well. :dance:
  11. goatweed

    goatweed New Member

    Feb 29, 2008
    Sorry, but how come you don't see many Kikos? I've read all about their characteristics and it seems like the Boer/Kiko cross would be the way to go for meat or showing. Also, what is a Savannah (?sp) goat? Is that what some people call a Spanish goat?
    I am having a hard time deciding what to buy for my first purchase this year. I really thought about a FB boer buck and several Kiko does. Does that sound feesible? Maybe the does need to be crosses (genemaster). I just don't know enough about the different breeds. I am having a difficult time finding Kikos around northeast TX.

    thanks again.
  12. Sara

    Sara Guest

    Oct 4, 2007
    Savannah's are pretty much a white variation of Boer's if I'm correct.
  13. StaceyRosado

    StaceyRosado Administrator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Oct 4, 2007
    the Boki is starting to take off, Kikos are a new breed to the US
  14. goathappy

    goathappy New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Savannas are a totally different breed from boer, they are much like Kikos but I don't think they were bred down from dairy goats like kikos were. Spanish is just a name for a feral goat, ie a goat of unknown but meat type origin.

    I have no idea why kikos aren't that popular, but you are seeing more of them around. I really like the kiko boer cross, with the meat breeds, I don't really like fullblood anything, I prefer crosses.