Hello, I could really use some help

Discussion in 'Goat Management' started by jlgalvin, Apr 26, 2010.

  1. jlgalvin

    jlgalvin New Member

    Apr 25, 2010
    Please bear with me, I am new to goats and your board. I was not sure where to place my post, as it contains many different questions.
    I hope I don't let this get to long, because I am hoping some of you will read it and offer me some advice and tips.

    Last Thursday we purchased two 12 week old Nubian males. She had banded them 1 week prior. They had only been outside about 2 -3 times, and had very little to no human contact. They had not yet been weaned. I am adding these details in case they are helpful

    When I went to see them, she kept mentioning coccidia, and putting stuff in the water for it. I researched coccidia on the web,a nd saw that it had the potential to get serious and fatal. I felt slightly more informed and decided to go ahead and purchase the goats. These goats are just pets. No breeding or showing.

    When I picked them up, again the coccidia was mentioned alot,a nd she gave me a powder to put in their water. I believe it was Dimethox ( the envelope is in the barn right now). THe istructions on the back did not give me proper dosing for my size water container, so I decided since I was such a newbie, I was betetr off just taking a fecal to the vet. Both kisds have coccidia. They are getting SMZ orally for 5 days and Corid in their water for 21. They want me to come back in about 6 weeks to recheck the fecal to see if they need to stay on a daily program.

    Does the above sound like a reasonable way to treat and ward off the coccidia? I also amd cleaning their food and water buckets daily, and cleaning their stall and removing as much fecal matter as possible daily. Replacing all the hay and straw as well. Is there more I should be doing?

    ALso, how do I go about sociallizing them? I know I should handle them as much as possible, but the only way to hold them is to chase and catch them. I am worried that is going to have the reverse affect.

    We are fencing them in a pature as well right now, but I don't want to put them out because I am not sure how I would ever catch them to bring them back in,a nd I was wondering if I should wait until I have the coccidia under control

    And, they have never been wormed. Should I do it now or wait?

    Ok, final question....for now. I am feeding them Purina Goat chow. They seem to be eating around alot of the pellets. Is there a better food available for healthy goats? What does everyone here prefer?

    I really appreciate everyone's time. Your help is greatly appreciated, and desperatley needed

    Also, I noticed they did not get loose stool until about 2 days after starting the trreatment regimen. I am unsure if it is the switch in feed or the medicine or the coccidia.
  2. liz

    liz Well-Known Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Shelocta PA
    It's good that you did have a vet run the fecal, it's obvious the Di Methox wasn't working, the meds they are on should fix that.
    If they still have runny poop after being on the new med longer than 2 days, I would contact the vet. Also, give them 6-8 cc of pepto bismol, it will help the diarrhea.
    Keep them in the stall and just go sit with them and always offer them a really good treat after you've had to catch them to give them their meds.

    It could be the grain thats giving them the runny poop as well.... try stopping the grain and give them only hay and a handful of dry oatmeal for a few days, this will tell you for sure if the meds are working, oh and some goats will sort through and leave the pellets, they will eventually eat them, by giving each a small meal...1/2 cup they';ll realize there is no more coming and will eat the pellets :wink:

  3. StaceyRosado

    StaceyRosado Administrator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Oct 4, 2007
    liz has some good advise.

    wanted to say that the SMZ will do the trick for the coccidia. If the fecal didnt show any worms then I wouldnt worm them.

    as to the socializing. Best bet is to keep them in a smaller area and just slowly interact with them. I find night time is the best time as they are less active and usually laying down and you can just go over and pet them, dont force them to do anything just pet them and allow them to walk away - repeat. Its a slow process. Also if they like their grain only give it to them if they eat it out of yoru hand or out of a dish in your hand.

    How much grain are you feeding them?
  4. chad3006

    chad3006 New Member

    Apr 5, 2010
    As for the worming, I would wait until the coccidia is under control. Since your keeping the pens clean and they are on feed, they should be fine in that regard. You could worm them just before you turn them out to the pasture.

    As for turning them out into the pasture I'm like you, I don't think I'd turn them out yet either. As Liz and Stacey said, just keep feeding them, and even if they don't ever completely "tame down," they will at least learn to follow you for food. Then you can use the old shake the feed bucket trick.

    As for the feed and diarrhea, Liz's advice is as good as any. I'll just add that we've had good luck with a flake feed rather than pellets for younger goats, but sometimes it's harder to find.
  5. elchivito

    elchivito Active Member

    Apr 18, 2010
    I think concetrates; grain, pelleted feed ration etc. are a bad idea for wethers. Since they're young and just weaned it's probably not a problem, but eventually a high concentrate diet can cause wethers to form urinary calculi (stones). These can be fatal if not caught early enough. This is particularly true if you have hard water. Make sure your boys are getting minerals that contain ammonium chloride and copper. Ammonium chloride will help prevent stone formation. Mineralized salt blocks are not enough. If it says "sheep and goat" on the label, it's fine for sheep, but NOT goats, they need more copper. Our grown wethers get grass hay and a little alfalfa hay, and NO grain. Never. For socialization, try treats like raisins, peanuts in their shells, corn chips, but not too many.
  6. StaceyRosado

    StaceyRosado Administrator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Oct 4, 2007
    its actually the phosphorous to calcium ratio

    you want a 2:1 calcium to phosphorous

    having ammonium chloride in their feed is an added bonus. if not be sure to have some on hand www.hoeggargoatsupply.com carries it
  7. jlgalvin

    jlgalvin New Member

    Apr 25, 2010
    Thank you all for the information. I really appreciate it. I am feeding them about 1 to 1 1/2 cup twice per day with free access to good hay. Is it safe to say that after the 5 days of SMZ, the worry about coccidia is over? I am worried that I am going to find them dead.
    Is Purina a good feed choice? I also offer free choice loose mineral and sodium bicarb, but it does not appear that they have touched it

    They won't eat treats or anything frm my hand. I have tried raisins and other treats. If I sit really still in a chair Billy will get close enough to pet, but Peter will not.
  8. citylights

    citylights Member

    Jul 3, 2009
    Southern California
    I second what everyone else has said! ANd it absolutley sounds like you're on the right path. Goats are very curious and will come over to investigate you. Once they figure out you can scratch their back where it itches or give them a treat, they'll learn quickly! Patience.
  9. liz

    liz Well-Known Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Shelocta PA
    Purina has 2 types of feed carried at my TSC...I have seen the Purina Goat Chow and the Purina Noble Goat...I use Blue Seal so I donb't know about the purina, I do think that the Noble Goat has added ammonium chloride which is good for acidifying the urine making UC less likely to develope.

    As far as them not touching the minerals, it's possible they never had access to them at the breeders, being as skittish as they are it's because they weren;t handled, it will take time to get them to trust you.