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How do i get started?

1649 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  jberter
Hello. Im new here and i really want to get started with meat goats but im not sure how to go about it. Should i get kiko or boar? how many should i start with?
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Well I started in goats with two mini goats then decided I loved goats and bought a herd of 21 boers and had some ups and downs but am glad I jumped in blind folded
Hello. Im new here and i really want to get started with meat goats but im not sure how to go about it. Should i get kiko or boar? how many should i start with?
Have you done any research on how to take care of them, how to feed them and kid them out? If not, that would be the first step. As far as breed, do your research, visit sale barns, check the market reports and see what breed sells best in your area. Talk to other goat owners, too, they can be a wealth of information. How many is going to depend on your background. If you've been around the business end of livestock before, then I would say 20 to 25 would be a good start. If you are a complete novice, then I would start with 5 to 10. I would also suggest getting and reading Storey's Guide to Raising Meat Goats. It is a good book and has lots of very useful information in it.
Have you done any research on how to take care of them, how to feed them and kid them out? If not, that would be the first step. As far as breed, do your research, visit sale barns, check the market reports and see what breed sells best in your area. Talk to other goat owners, too, they can be a wealth of information. How many is going to depend on your background. If you've been around the business end of livestock before, then I would say 20 to 25 would be a good start. If you are a complete novice, then I would start with 5 to 10. I would also suggest getting and reading Storey's Guide to Raising Meat Goats. It is a good book and has lots of very useful information in it.
i have done a bit of research and i know the basics but i want to make sure i know as much as possible. I will probably start with the 5-10 to make sure i have things under control. I have a book thats called Raising Meat Goats for profit. If anyone has any tips im open to anything.
That's a good book, too. Here are some websites that are good.

www.sheepandgoat.com

http://tennesseemeatgoats.com/articles2/articlesMain.html

http://goatworld.com/

Under the pictures is a link for USDA Market Reports. I don't know where you live, but if your local sale barns stream live over the internet you should be able to watch them by logging onto CattleUSA.com. When you pull it up, it has a list of auctions.

http://www.sheepandgoat.com/recordings.html

The University of Maryland Small Ruminant Extension puts on Webinars dealing with various aspects of sheep and goats. The link above gives you access to all of the webinars they have already done. They are hosting another webinar that starts the 30th of January, I believe, dealing with goat health. There is no cost. I hope this helps! :)

Oh, the University of Maryland also has a good newsletter that they put out 4 times a year. It can be accessed at

http://www.sheepandgoat.com/news/main.html
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Usually boers are a very popular meat goat. It really though depends on what your preference is and your area of demand.

I do not recommend getting them from a Auction, as you do not know what you are going to bring home as in diseases and other breeders problems.
Go to a breeder instead. You want to keep away from CL lumps in the lymphnode(sp) area's , swollen knee's,CAE, any lameness ect. That will be devastating to start.

Remember, goats normally have twins but can have trips ect. So you will very quickly accumulate more goats.
Keep the good offspring for breeders and if they are better than the Does you have to start, replace those with better ones. Each kidding to improve your herd.

You will have to be able to trim hooves of your foundation Does and Buck ect. Plus, may have to vaccinate if you are wanting to give CD&T or other vaccines.
Or at times treat for pneumonia or other issues. Kidding time is a busy time and to avoid losses, you are going to have to be there when it is time, in case they need help. So if the numbers are too high to start it can be overwhelming.

A good draft free shelter is essential for kids and Adults.

Loose salts an minerals with selenium and copper is crucial.

Make sure, the Does have decent teat structures, not cluster teats, so they can easily feed their babies, this is important.
They don't have to be perfect if they are for meat goats but, they must be able to feed the kids. Udder size should be big enough to feed her kids too.

My foundation herd is all FB registered.Started out with Fb and percentages, but now strictly FB.
I have it this way so if I want to sell registered or unregistered goats. I will have meat goat, the ones going for meat, the ones that are nice with small genetic flaws going as unregistered commercial stock and show stock that FB registered.
So I have all avenues for customers. I tried the meat market, but didn't make much. When I started getting into registered stock, I found that I made more money with them.

When I started out I had 19 breeding Does, one buck, when the Does kidded, I was overwhelmed and it was a lot to endure, when just learning.

Hope I helped some.
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Usually boers are a very popular meat goat. It really though depends on what your preference is and your area of demand.

I do not recommend getting them from a Auction, as you do not know what you are going to bring home as in diseases and other breeders problems.
Go to a breeder instead. You want to keep away from CL lumps in the lymphnode(sp) area's , swollen knee's,CAE, any lameness ect. That will be devastating to start.

Remember, goats normally have twins but can have trips ect. So you will very quickly accumulate more goats.
Keep the good offspring for breeders and if they are better than the Does you have to start, replace those with better ones. Each kidding to improve your herd.

You will have to be able to trim hooves of your foundation Does and Buck ect. Plus, may have to vaccinate if you are wanting to give CD&T or other vaccines.
Or at times treat for pneumonia or other issues. Kidding time is a busy time and to avoid losses, you are going to have to be there when it is time, in case they need help. So if the numbers are too high to start it can be overwhelming.

A good draft free shelter is essential for kids and Adults.

Loose salts an minerals with selenium and copper is crucial.

Make sure, the Does have decent teat structures, not cluster teats, so they can easily feed their babies, this is important.
They don't have to be perfect if they are for meat goats but, they must be able to feed the kids. Udder size should be big enough to feed her kids too.

My foundation herd is all FB registered.Started out with Fb and percentages, but now strictly FB.
I have it this way so if I want to sell registered or unregistered goats. I will have meat goat, the ones going for meat, the ones that are nice with small genetic flaws going as unregistered commercial stock and show stock that FB registered.
So I have all avenues for customers. I tried the meat market, but didn't make much. When I started getting into registered stock, I found that I made more money with them.

When I started out I had 19 breeding Does, one buck, when the Does kidded, I was overwhelmed and it was a lot to endure, when just learning.

Hope I helped some.
Thank you i think that information will help me alot. like i said im still learning and have alot left to learn. Thank you again for all this help.
Also, this forum is a great place to start. :) Lots of stickies and helpful threads :)
Your welcome :)
Start out with cheap goats, because you will have some get sick and die.
Start out with cheap goats, because you will have some get sick and die.
Very poor herd management causes death from illness. I have never lost a goat to illness.
Very poor herd management causes death from illness. I have never lost a goat to illness.
My point is that if you know absolutely nothing about goats, you don't know what constitutes good herd management. You don't know how to pick up on all the signs that the goats are sick. I had one die because I didn't know to vaccinate for CD/T. I had another die because of coccidiosis. A couple more died that were wormy. There is a lot to know about tending to goats, and if you are a novice, it would be wise to by cheap goats to learn on.
My point is that if you know absolutely nothing about goats, you don't know what constitutes good herd management. You don't know how to pick up on all the signs that the goats are sick. I had one die because I didn't know to vaccinate for CD/T. I had another die because of coccidiosis. A couple more died that were wormy. There is a lot to know about tending to goats, and if you are a novice, it would be wise to by cheap goats to learn on.
Did you loose a goat to over eating disease or tetanus?

I have to say this.
We all started somewhere, but for me as well as others, didn't have the goat spot to help learn the proper way to care for goats. I learned the hard way, through trial and error and yes, losses. I started out with all registered, had some nice goats and others were not as good.
Now that the Goat spot is here, which is a blessing. Members or visitors come here and are willing to learn. That is more than I can say for some that don't care or even want to learn.

Marco is here as well as others, asking questions to learn and come here for guidance and advice, which I respect greatly.
It is unfair to tell someone where to start. It is up to each breeder.

Not all us of us have even seen 1/2 of the issues, that may arise with a goats health. New problems we never dealt with before may raise it's ugly head and even us pro's, to this day, may lose a goat, not knowing the signs and try about everything possible to save them, with bad outcomes.
The sad part is, we know more than most vets about goats and when we try to get help by them, they either give the wrong treatments or bad advice that will kill a goat. It is sad. :(

Silent pneumonia is one that is undetectable and can kill them within a short period of time. They will be OK that night and in the morning are found dead.

A goat doesn't die over night from worms or cocci, you may see scouring, but sometimes not, anemia(checking lower eye lid membranes or gums), weight loss, rough hair, poor health.

Look at your goats when they are healthy, know what is normal, so you know, when something is off. If a goat stops eating, that is the first major indication something is wrong, goats live to eat.
If something doesn't seem right, first thing to do is, "always" get a temp. This will give you some idea where to start treatment and what to use.

Other Signs of illness or not healthy:
off by themselves, laying around to long, not eating at feeding time, scouring, losing condition or weight. hair is rough, respiratory sounds, coughing, hunching, shivering sometimes( but not always), head down, white or pale gums or lower eyelid membranes color.
foaming, puking and bloat( extended way above the left rib cage area).
A goat not peeing or pooing. These are just some issues to watch out for.

Never ignore any signs of illness, the longer you may wait, the less the chances of survival in some situations.
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Welcome to our goat forum,, :) Toth Boer's has given you some great info,, hope whatever breed you get, you stay with us and share them, we love pictures.. :) It will also depend on how much space you have to raise them on, and location,( farm or urban??)..
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