The Goat Spot Forum banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got some ivomec plus today and i have no idea how to give it?
-I know how to give shots under the skin in their shoulder/armpit but thats about it.
-4cc per 100 lbs right?
-Where/how should I give it?
-Tips?
-It's for a 10 month old 80-100lb buck.
-can i give it to a doe that has kids nursing?

I tried to kind of split up all the questions sorry there are so many, i just dont want to do it wrong.

Thank you! :D
 

·
I'm watching you
Joined
·
22,273 Posts
That is the oral dosage. I don't give it injected so, you'll have to wait for someone else on that.
 

·
Live. Love. Ride. Milk.
Joined
·
511 Posts
I got this website that gives you all the info you need. It says cows, but it can be used on goats. I pulled out and answers to the questions to have, but I would still suggest you read the information at the website. http://www.drugs.com/pro/ivomec-plus.html
1: The way you are used to giving it is the correct way to give this product. Behind the elbow, what you call the "armpit"
2: the dosage is 1 cc per 50 lbs. This is by subcutaneous injection.
3: You already know this and I have told you. If you need more help I would suggest having an experienced animal person come and show you or help you do it.
4: I have only a few tips. HOLD THE GOAT STILL!! make sure the goat cannot move before you put the needle in. If you put the needle in and the goat moves than it can cause a bigger hole and the needle could hit something inside the goat, besides it is painful for the goat. also have a helper.
5: that size buck is fine. You will want to give .5 or .7 cc to this goat as he is not 110 lbs, but remember never underdose wormer. Don't do extreme overdose, but it is better to do a little more than a little less.
6: They do not have a withdrawal time set for female cows(goats) so I don't think you should. You could research that a little more and see what other people do. I don't worm with Ivomec after my does kid.
I hope this helped you.
 

·
I'm watching you
Joined
·
22,273 Posts
That is way under dosed for goats. They must be given at least twice the amount you would give a cow and 3 times the amount you would give a horse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30,656 Posts
Im A sub Q'er...lol..I prefere to use wormer injected...it stay in the system longer and works slower...for me it has been very effective

Sub Q is 1 cc per 40# : ) I like to give it where the kneck meets the body..my goats seem to react less here...get them walking as soon as you give it and that helps the sting wear off faster..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
401 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you everyone! :D

I ended up giving the buck 2 1/2 cc orally. Im waiting until tomorrow to give it to the doe, i ran out of time today. So in 10 days i need to give it again? Ill probably knock his dose up to 3 ccs next time just to make sure it will be enough.

He's had bottle jaw for about a week, i should have caught his eye color sooner, i called the vet when it started and they said to try valbazen since i had it on hand. It didn't help at all so i looked up some threads on here so thats why im trying it. :)

He's getting b 12 shots, red cell, and ACV every day and his color has started coming back to his eyelids. :) He is usually on hay and grazes all day but I read about them needing higher protein feed to get rid of it faster, so I was thinking about giving him some of the does grain (the does get it but i never feed it to the bucks) if he only gets grain for 2 weeks or so should i worry about UC?

Thank you again, i had no idea how to give it. :) Im hoping it will work soon and i can get him better again.
 

·
I'm watching you
Joined
·
22,273 Posts
I would go with alfalfa over grain. Do you have Dandelions? They are very very good for anemia.
 

·
Live. Love. Ride. Milk.
Joined
·
511 Posts
That is way under dosed for goats. They must be given at least twice the amount you would give a cow and 3 times the amount you would give a horse.
I want to thank you for calling me out on that. After reading that I did what I should have done in the first place and went to the website where I get all of my medication info. Here is a link and the correct doseage is 1 cc per 50 lbs given orally however she does note that "Some people are now using 1cc per 34 lbs with good success. This is 3X the label dose." This is what she says about giving it "This injectable wormer is not given by injection. It works much better if given orally. Measure the wormer with a syringe, but remove the needle before squirting the wormer into the goats mouth. Get it as far back as you can because it does not taste good and they will try to spit it out." I use a short hose that fits tightly on the syringe. Now that you have the right info you can give the medication. http://fiascofarm.com/goats/wormers.htm#ivomec
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
58,925 Posts
That is even outdated when it comes to chemical dewormers. Many people are now giving it orally at 1cc per 20-25 lbs.
 

·
Live. Love. Ride. Milk.
Joined
·
511 Posts
That is because(and she mentions this on her site) it is becoming uneffective in the US and otehr countries. She states "Do too it's overuse, there is beginning to be resistance to this wormer in the US, Thailand and perhaps other countries. " So you must use more of it for it to be affective. However I think the doses that I wrote down are fine. It would probably be better to use a different wormer than keep uping the dosage.
 

·
Live. Love. Ride. Milk.
Joined
·
511 Posts
Actually you should use one dewormer until it no longer works.
I have always heard that you should not use the same wormer every year. We change it up every year at least doing 1 wormer on year and then another that next and then back to the one I did before. I will often throw in herbal wormer in one year as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30,656 Posts
Pam is correct...its better to use the same wormer until it no longer works...
 

·
Live. Love. Ride. Milk.
Joined
·
511 Posts
How do you know when it stops working and how long does that usually take? when it could go a few times of not worming them before you knew them it wasn't working? I think it would be better to use different wormers. You probably could go 2 years using the same wormer, but I would want to change it after that. Also you can't always use the same wormer on pregant does that you would usually use therefore you have to us different wormers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30,656 Posts
I have been using Ivomec Plus and Valabazen for 7 years..still effective..when you worm when needed instead of on a regular rotation then it works longer..also treating for the targeted worm is important..for ex: if you have a goat with bottle jaw..figure its Barpole worm..so you treat with ivomec...it doenst work..so you think Ivomec no longer works ..but in fact the worm your goat has is Liver fluke which can also cause bottle jaw...and only ivomec plus or valbazen kills liver fluke..so Ivomec goes on the shelf with you thinking it no longer works..when you were in fact treating the wrong worm..this is why fecals are important..or at the very least,chooseing a wormer with more bang for your buck since liver fluke eggs and barpole eggs look very much alike, and can easlly be mistaken choose a wormer that kills both...this is why I choose Iv. Plus and valbazen..if I cant have a fecal done for what ever reason..at least I know my wormer is covering a large base..when you are consistant in your worming program, worm when needed, use fecals to pin point the worm at large and famancha chart to assess anemia, then your wormer of choice will work longer...and you will know when it no longer works for you...what ever wormer(s) you choose you need one to kill liver fluke, and a white wormer ..You could choose Valabazen as your soul wormer but its not cost effective for large herd...1 cc per 10# can add up compaired to 1 cc per 40# sub Q of Iv plus..but each producer should decide for himself on that. If you like using Cydectin, then you should keep either valbazen or Iv plus handy in case liver fluke is found to be the problem..because cydectin will not kill liver fluke..so yes, you are right, not all wormers cover all worms or meet every need and you need two...Iv.plus does not take care of Tape..and valbazen should not be used on bred does...it cant kill mites either..so choose two wormers to coverall a good bases and use them along with regular fecals and famancha charting. If you happen to choose wormers that do not kill liver fluke..the you obviously will need a third..
I hope that helps a bit and not too wordy :p
 

·
I'm watching you
Joined
·
22,273 Posts
I am going on 12 years using Safeguard and Ivomec plus. Both are still working very well for what I use them for. Safeguard is used on littles under 6 months, for Giardia, and as an aid to cocci prevention. It still is working well enough on Brown Stomach worm that I almost never need to use anything stronger on them. Ivomec Plus gets rid of the Brown Stomach worm and Liver Fluke that is my main problem here.
I have goats here that haven't needed to be wormed in 2 years. So, they haven't been...I never use wormer when it isn't needed. If someone does need wormed they are put into a small worming pen that is never used for anything else. That way they are not shedding a whole load of eggs and larvae into my barn, main pens, and pasture area.
Worming goats is a whole learning experience of it's own. They are highly prone to creating resistant parasites just because that's how they are made. Once the resistance has grown to include all available wormers, then where will we be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,609 Posts
Can they grow a resistance to the herbal stuff Goathiker? I read that they can't that is why I am trying the Fir Meadows, but just wanted to know your take on it.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top