LOADS of breeding questions

Discussion in 'Goat Management' started by Zelda, Aug 23, 2009.

  1. Zelda

    Zelda Guest

    May 2, 2009
    Alrighty, this is my first go-round with getting my goats bred and I am clueless. I'm just gonna throw a bunch of questions out there. Jump in and give me your opinion to help me form mine...

    FWIW, I don't want to keep a buck long term. I'm not well setup for it, and I have little interest in getting setup to keep one unless there is a good business reason.

    - Should I think about buying a buck or should I breed to someone else's buck? If I buy a young buck, what are my options for him? Can I likely resell him? Or is there a decent way to get him into the freezer (or will he be too bucky)??

    - How does biosecurity work when you breed your does to a buck that is not yours? What are the risks? Do you usually send the girls off farm or bring the buck in? I am really leary about sending my does off farm.

    - What immunizations do my girls need?

    - I am not opposed to AI, but I don't know how it works for goats. Do you have to have your own semen tank? I do have a friend available who is an expert at AI for cows, and I am sure he could help with the goats (from what I've read, AI for goats is not difficult to learn). Is it a better choice for maintaining biosecurity?

    What else do I need to know or think about???
  2. AlaskaBoers

    AlaskaBoers New Member

    May 6, 2008
    Wasilla Alaska
    Well if you only have 3-4 does, then I dont think it'd be nessasary to buy a buck. This year I'm taking mine to a buck. since the buck is CAE, CL and Johnes neg, and so are my does, then I have no problem with biosecurity, but I do de-louse befor and after.

    only vaccinationneeded is the booster for CD/T if they already havent had it this year, also make sure there in good body condition, good feet, and healthy. you dont want to breed does with bad feet or too skinny/pudgy.

  3. KW Farms

    KW Farms Moderator Supporting Member

    Jun 21, 2008
    Wapato, WA
    I have heard of people butchering bucks with no tint of "buck" in the tast, but I haven't done it so i'm not sure. For me I love having my own bucks, but if you aren't set up for them and aren't ready,,,then that's totally fine. One thing you should consider though, for breeding to outside bucks...is the gas $, stud fees, and boarding going to ad up to what you could have spent on buying a buck. Because if it's higher then it's probably smarter to buy a buck and then sell once he's done servicing your does. Another thing, when you have your own buck...if you doe should ever abort or not take the first breeding you will be able to breed her back soon rather than finding a day to drive to the buck owner's place.

    With stud service, the does usually go to the buck. You would want to make sure the buck is CAE, CL, and Johnes negative so you aren't putting your does at risk. The owner should have a nice and neat place for your does and be very well educated of their goats breed, diseases, etc.

    I will be giving a BoSe shot to all my goats this year right before breeding season.

    Hope that helps a tad. I don't really have any advice or opinions on biosecurity just yet.
  4. FunnyRiverFarm

    FunnyRiverFarm New Member

    Sep 13, 2008
    Hudson, MI
    Personally, I would not keep buck for less than 4 does. To me, It is not worth the time, money, and energy spent taking care of him when he is only needed for a couple days out of the year. Plus they stink...really bad.

    I like to do what's called "Driveway Breeding". That is, I take my does to the buck to be serviced when they are in standing heat. The whole ordeal lasts only a few minutes--Unload the does, put them in a small pen with the buck, wait for them to do "the deed" a couple times, take them and put them back in the truck, get a breeding memo from the owner of the buck and pay for the services, then go back home.

    The down side to this is that you have to be able to tell when the does are ready to be bred...which can be hard to do at times. Most breeders will let you come back for free if your doe cycles again after the initial breeding.

    In this manner, your goats have very little contact with other goats and it helps protect both herds.
  5. goathappy

    goathappy New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    If a buck goes through one rut even if he isn't a year old he will taste bucky(and I'm saying that from personal experience)

    As long as you can find a good reputable breeder who owns a disease free herd then I'd say stud service would be the best thing for you. We use outside studs on a few of our does and we've never brought any diseases home. The only problem is gas and the time it takes to get your doe to the buck.

    As for AI, it costs more than you think, and if you don't have somebody who's willing to store your semen for you, then you would have to keep your own tank and make sure its filled with nitrogen all the time.
  6. Zelda

    Zelda Guest

    May 2, 2009
    So what should buck service to a good buck cost? One person who has upscale show goats quoted me $200-$400 per doe, depending on which sire I picked out. Uff-da.

    It is not easy in my rural area to find people who care about biosecurity... And the few people I've run across who do generally won't breed outside goats. It seems to be a catch-22.


    I like the driveway service concept.
  7. KW Farms

    KW Farms Moderator Supporting Member

    Jun 21, 2008
    Wapato, WA
    I would think a good buck from excellent bloodlines that has not been shown...maybe $75 to $100. A buck that has been shown and is a champion and/or has champion daughters or sons..maybe $100 to $150. $200 to $400 seems quite high, but I don't know the bloodlines and accomplishments of the buck(s) in question.

    You'll probably just have to keep looking...i'm sure that perfect buck will come along. Driveway breeding is a good method, but then again, sometimes does won't take or will be nervous so they come out of heat by the time the buck gets to her, etc. then you have to do everything over again...check when she's in heat, drive to the buck, and hopefully she takes. Sometimes it's easier to leave the doe and then bring her back after a week or so. :shrug:
  8. nancy d

    nancy d Moderator Staff Member Supporting Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    near Seattle
    We started out with 4 does, brought them for a visit for amonth, the following yr the same thing.
    Then she offfered a lease. We paid $100 for unlimited does & his food.
    So the q about the 100 or so to bring does probably includes their room & board.
    We are at year 4 & this is the first time retaining a buck from our own herd but he wont be really ready till next season.
    So another lease is what we will do.
    My does get prepped with their CDT BoSe & worming. They also get a tail clip so its easier to see any messy tails on them. And dont forget the foot trims!
    Our biosecurity constists of all breeding age does tested for CL & CAE and we look at the buck's health papers as well. :wink:
  9. goathappy

    goathappy New Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    We've always payed $35 around here for bucks, proven and unproven, super nice and not-so-nice.
  10. AlaskaBoers

    AlaskaBoers New Member

    May 6, 2008
    Wasilla Alaska
    $400 is pretty high, in boer goats, your buck would need to be National Champion or Ennobled for prices to be above $250.

    I and most others around here charge $50. ND's are around $150
  11. liz

    liz Well-Known Member

    Oct 5, 2007
    Shelocta PA
    Wow! Those are some pretty high prices for stud fee's......around here, ND stud fee's are at $25.00 :wink:
  12. Zelda

    Zelda Guest

    May 2, 2009
  13. sparks879

    sparks879 New Member

    To me that seems really high, i paid four hundred for a buck kid out of a doe that placed first in a huge class at nationals. (this is dairy goats thoug)
    I never charge more then seventy five per breeding. Fifty for un proven buck kids and yearlings. I usually dont stud my bucks out for fear of disease.
  14. rebelshope

    rebelshope New Member

    Sep 20, 2008
    I was in the same boat as you. I just decided to get my own buck. I got him when I got my does, all from the same place. He is a nice boy. He has not been shown but he has offspring that have done well.

    I got a buck because
    1~ people with nice bucks did not want to do outside breeds
    2~ I really was not sure how well I would be able to detect a heat
    3~ I didn't have a bucky smelling rag
    4~ with three does, a buck was not really that much more difficult to take care of. Of course now I have 4 does, a buck, and a wether. . . I just seem to keep collect them. lol

    My buck is a sweet boy who, for most of the year, is not stinky. Now he is~ so far I don't mind it much.

    In his off season he is used for weed control.
  15. citylights

    citylights Member

    Jul 3, 2009
    Southern California
    A really nice, permanent grand champion pygmy in So Cal would be under $200 stud fee, that would include at least two weeks of board and care. In the Los Angeles area, it can go yup to $500 -- it's all about marketing, marketing, marketing!!!

    I, personally, closed my herd a year ago and won't breed outside animals. I paid too much to test all these guys and I'm a control freak I guess! We do have a "network" of owners and breeders in my area that are on the same testing program and are closed too, so I can go to them if I want to use one of their bucks.

    If you're just starting out -- have you tested? -- I'd look for a nice animal at a reasonable price and check out their set up before taking my does there. You can't control everything, but chances are you'll be okay. If a herd is closed, you can always ask to buy one of their bucks -- if they have a younger animals without a show record or an older one they're not using, it shouldn't be too expensive. That way you can get the blood lines you wnat....
  16. Zelda

    Zelda Guest

    May 2, 2009
    I have not tested yet this season, but my doe was tested last season (I have the lab slip), and the doeling was bottle raised by me on pasteurized colostrum and then cows milk. Both of my goats were from the same farm, and the owner was vigilant about CAE.

    So while I have good reason to believe my girls are CAE free, I can't prove it until I do the bloodwork (it is on the to-do list).