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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I posted a while back when one of does was amenic with bottle jaw. I believe the barborpole worms are back. (it is my understanding that that is what causes the goats to be anemic. ) The same doe and one of the younger ones under eyelids has little to no pink (no bottle jaw yet). My baby boy and doe in milk are still fine. I am beginning to underestimate the ability of ivomectin (maybe its ivermectin) to get rid of these. The last time I had this problem was after a dose of this and now, again this is happening shortly after I administered it.
What I have done so far:
Yesterday: Both does received iron injection IM 1cc
Prescribed amount of Safegaurd.
Today: Another 1 cc of iron
After reading uses of Safegaurd I increased the amount to 3x recomended does and gave them this.
One doe is 18 months the other is 6 months.

Any treatment recomendations? or anyone else believe I should not use the ivomectin again????? (I worm every 30 days (very wet and soggy here) rotating between 5 different wormers)
 

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Worming monthly may be the issue, your goats may be immuned to the wormers now, best to get a fecal to know where they are.

Also by injecting Ivomec, it isn't as potent, which is good for anemic goats. First, we hit them that way or with a milder wormer, then we can come back and give it orally after so much time and finish the worms off.
Are your goats with bottle jaw?

Another thing can be cocci too, get a fecal.
 

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What size goats?

Safeguard is pretty much useless here (southeast us). I use ivomec plus at 1 cc per 33 lbs orally or valbazen at 1 cc per 10 lbs orally. Iron injections at 1 cc per 20 lbs in the muscle for at least three days then weekly until color returns.

Rotating wormers has been shown to build resistance more quickly as has using wormers unless they are needed. I would recommend only worming when they start looking a little pale. Use 1 wormer until it is no longer effective then change.

Worms are crazy this year! I'm having a little trouble myself. Hot and humid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
worming

When I call into the vet to get the wormer... they just give me what they think is best... They think it is best to rotate. So I just listen to them. Should I call in instead for a specific wormer instead of letting them pick????
Also I was instructed by the people I bought them from to worm every 30 days. (My first goats btw)

When do you recommend to worm??? signs of diarhea, anemia, or a set schedule???

Neither have bottle jaw now. The older one had it months ago, but I was able to get everything back to normal.

I will administer the 1cc per 20lbs tomarrow of iron. Is there any risk of iron overdose???? My vet said (last time with the bottlejaw) to use 1 cc per HEAD. I know vets are educated and all but nothing beats experience!!!!!
 

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Ivomec does not get liver fluke...which can also cause bottle jaw...only ivomenc plus and valbazen kill liver fluke....without doing a fecal to see which worm you are dealing with its better to use a wormer that get the most likely one..

Ivomec plus 1 cc per 40# sub Q
Valbazen 1 cc per 10# orally

do a 3 times 10 days apart then once more in 30 day s for a good cleaning..

with severe anemia giving iron daily for a few days is safe then cut back to once a week..I would not do iron shots for a week...maybe 2-3 days..it take a long time for a goat to rebuild red blood cells..you wont see bright pink lids for a while...add high protein feed, alfalfa and green leaves to help the rebuilding process..
 

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not both...: ) one or the other..;)
 

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I think you need to have a fecal done to include coccidia.

It also sounds like you have been underdosing all the dewormers so the parasites may be becoming resistant to everything.

When you find out what worms you have, come back here and find out what you should use and at what dosage. Your vet shoulf not be encouraging you to worm monthly and to keep changing wormers.
 

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Someone else said it but I will repeat.
Changing wormers, underdosing & worming when not needed are all causes of resistance.
Your vet needs a bit more edgeumocation.


Basically, most parasites live 4-6" from the ground. If pasture is eaten down you will have wormloads.
If goat is stressed such as kidding time she will have parasite bloom.
This is why alot of us worm the day of kidding & 10 days later if no other time.
In addition, high copper levels in a good loose mineral are going to help your goats fight worms.
 

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If your goats are resistant to the chemical wormers, I would suggest ordering Fir Meadows DWorm A and GI Soother. I would be giving it at double or triple dose, three times a day for a week. I saw results with it, worms do not grow resistant to herbs. You can actually do the herbal wormers along with a chemical wormer, if you want, it will help add power to your punch. The cayanne in the herbal wormer will help protect your goat from bleeding out as parasites release. You can also buy cayenne tincture for this purpose.

As happybleats said, I'd also be giving Iron. Black Strap molasses is another source of iron and provides energy. You can mix it with their water if you want to. Red Cell may also be a good idea at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
loose minerals

I have a mineral block.... what are the loose minerals that you are talking about and how to you go about administering them?
 

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Loose mineral are like a coarse powder ....the blocks have too much salt and are hard on the goats tongue..they either get enough salt and stop licking before they get enough mineral or their tongue get wore out..loose mineral make it easy for them to get what they need with out all that salt and licking : ) I put a bit in a hanging dish daily..just about enough for them per day.. : )
 
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