worming and vaccinating questions

Discussion in 'Goat Management' started by happyhogs, Apr 1, 2010.

  1. happyhogs

    happyhogs Member

    Oct 12, 2009
    Hi there,

    I'm about to worm my two pygmy x goats for the first time as I have only had them six months and the farm did them before that. I have ordered Panacur online and am awaiting its arrival. I have read the online leaflet of instructions that will come with the stuff but it doesn't mention any food withdrawal time yet I read up on drenching and it said starve for 12 hrs before and 4 hrs after a drench, just giving water. Do any of you guys starve before treating for worms?

    Also, I am getting Lambivac too for injecting. I am confident with the needle as I have a diabetic cat I jab twice a day but have you any tips for goat jabbing? Where abouts would you inject them...in the neck? The back? I take it a sub q on a goat is given in the same way as a cat sub q....make a scruff and inject into the 'airspace' between skin and muscle?

    Any help would be appreciated xx
  2. farmergal

    farmergal New Member

    Jun 19, 2009
    Northern California
    Can't help you with the worming details but for a sub q you've got it right. Make a "tent" out of the skin and then poke it through one side of the "tent". I find it depends on the individual goat where they have the most extra skin so I just try different places until I find one that works (for pregnant goats it usually takes a few tries to find some extra skin because everything is so stretched out!) but common places are: shoulders/withers, around the rear thigh. I have heard of some people giving the shot inside the rear legs to "hide" the lump if you will be showing soon. (Some shots form a lump around the injection site.)

    Hoeggar's has a good picture:

  3. Mully

    Mully New Member

    Jun 23, 2009
    Mt Ulla , NC
    Fenbendazole .. the ingredient in Panacor and safeguard is not as effective as it once was due to parasite resistance to the drug. It is very safe and you might want to give another treatment in a few weeks. For "wormers" I like the herbal ones the best ...they work !!
  4. DPW

    DPW New Member

    Mar 13, 2010
    Crow, Oregon.
    Parasite resistance to anthelmintics is something I've researched extensively. Mully is right. The "white" wormers are not very effective any more.
    In the past many goat owners have made mistakes in this area which have led to the resistant parasites we deal with today. Here are a few.
    Worming on a schedule whether the goat needed it or not. Under dosing. Alternating wormers. Putting wormed goats on "clean" pasture after worming. All these practises and others have resulted in "super" worms.
    Here are two links with a lot of info on this issue. The first one is a PDF that can be found at the 2nd link.
    Not all questions have been answered. Research continues and what is considered appropriate today may not be considered appropriate tomorrow. I do believe that taking the goat off feed for 12-24 hrs is still recommended though.

    http://www.scsrpc.org/SCSRPC/Files/File ... edings.pdf

  5. happyhogs

    happyhogs Member

    Oct 12, 2009
    Thanks guys! The picture was very helpful Farmergal, it's good to have my thoughts confirmed on that xx

    And the reading material was very interesting. I went on to do further reading on some UK sites as I live in England and it would seem we have less of an issue with some of the species of worms named due to our less temperate climate but never-the-less, it gave a lot of great info on management and dosage.

    I am required to dose 'on a schedule' regardless as the goats live on the property of the school I work at and I have to ensure a schedule of worming and vaccination to satisfy the health and safety regulations but there are no hard and fast rules on how or what with so the literature was helpful with different suggestions

    Thanks again xx